Building Displaying Sailing Model Boats and Ships

Selecting a Radio Controlled Model Sailboat

2011-05-03T16:33:00.001-04:00

Select a Radio Controlled Model Sailboat - wikiHow

Select a Radio Controlled Model Sailboat

RC model sailboats are fun for all ages! You can choose your boat from among many alternatives. These range from prebuilt to designing and building your own. Factors to consider include your level of experience, where you plan to sail your boat, how competitive you want to be, and, of course, your budget. Whatever you decide you'll discover a great way to spend time outdoors with family and friends.

Rustic Model Boats

2011-03-14T08:36:00.001-04:00

Rustic Model Boats - Welcome

The owner is Mike John. Many of you know him from the Duckworks online amateur boatbuilding magazine owned by Chuck and Sandra. This site will help you find the information you need.

The site is about cruising model boats. Not the racing classes, but rather the sort that slowly meanders across a pond rather than race a course

John invites skippers to gather and just have their boats
meandering around in a relaxed way at
Lake Macquarie, Australia.

http://www.pondyachtworks.com/Star45.html

2009-06-02T10:06:00.001-04:00

PondYachtworks in Scottsdale, AZ. Star 45

http://www.pondyachtworks.com/Star45_Gallery_3/index.html

Memories from 1911 about Model-yachting

2009-05-05T08:49:00.002-04:00

Model-yachting - LoveToKnow 1911

Model-yacht regattas are very different from the toy-boat matches indulged in by children from one side of a pond to the other. They take place upon sufficiently large bodies of water to allow a course at least a quarter of a mile in length, which is generally sailed twice or three times over to windward and backward. Triangular courses are also sailed. Racing rules correspond generally to those controlling regattas of large boats, and there is full scope to exhibit all the proofs of good seamanship. The yachts are followed in light skiffs, and may not be touched more than a certain number of times during a race, on penalty of a handicap. Racing measurements differ in the various clubs, but all are based upon length and sail-area. In Great Britain the regular Yacht Racing Association rule has been generally adopted, and handicaps deducted from it. In America models are divided into a single schooner with a maximum load water-line of 63 in., and three classes of sloops, the first class including yachts with water-lines between 48 and 53 in., the second class those between 42 and 48 in. and the third and smallest class those between 35 and 42 in. A yacht with a shorter water-line than 35 in. must race in the third class. It has been found that yachts of smaller dimensions possess too little resistance to the wind.

See Model Sailing Yachts; in Marshall's Practical Manuals series, 1905; and How to Build a Model Yacht, by Herbert Fisher (New York, 1902).

Middle Caicos Sailing Association , Model Sailboat Fleet and Sailors

2009-05-03T12:01:00.002-04:00

Middle Caicos Sailing Association - Turks and Caicos Islands ancient hand carved model boats

Sailing Model sail control winch options

2009-04-28T13:13:00.002-04:00

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Winch? Which Winch?
From: "Douglas" Subject: [Star45] Winch? Which Winch?
To: Star45@yahoogroups.com

Is the Hitec HS-785HB Sail Winch Servo enough for the star or is the RMG the must have for the star? Is there any other options, better options with regards to a drum servo? Is the drum the best choice? What's your opinion, I'd very much appreciate it?

Doug
--
From: "jfisher"

I have not use an arm winch for years, but one difference I found was that they tend to use more power than the RMG. I usually use about 600 mah in 3 hours of sailing with an RMG. So I run 1340 lipo’s and swap at lunch on a big regatta or not at all on club days. Only 80g for the battery. I usually use more battery out of the TX than the boat.

I also don’t like that the power of an arm winch changes depending of your sheeting. On my M it used to sheet out while reaching on the puffs. With the RMG this doesn’t happen. I have considered the new digital ¼ scale servo’s since they are super fast. Now you can gybe without losing speed.

If you want a cheap drum and have not used an RMG before the Hitech drum winch is a good choice, about $50. But once you sail with an RMG with its quicker speed you wont want to go back. Also you will need a more advanced radio to change the sheeting length as it only turn 3.5 turns, while the RMG has programmable travel.

--
From: Larry Ludwig

The Futaba 5801 is an excellent choice for the Star 45, and has one particularly nice feature in the form of a set screw that allows you to dial the travel length right there with the winch installed. It is also considerbly cheaper. The winch retails for $149.00 from www.towerhobbies.com and they have a special right now for a $150 order take off $15.00 so $135.00 and it may even qualify for free shipping. Smoking deal.

Personally, I prefer a swing arm over the drum winches because of reliability. I know several guys that swear that they have never had a drum "spool off" but I am the opposite, I have never had one that did NOT spool off at one point. Just my .02 but I don't know of a swing arm winch that I like for the Star, they are either too big or too small. If I was to pick one, I would say the Ozman or Probar, I think those are still available.

posted by Dave_Mainwaring # Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Materials for spars (from 1995 discussion)

2009-04-25T10:46:00.001-04:00

Model Boat Building Resource: Materials for spars (from 1995 discussion)

Saturday, April 25, 2009
Materials for spars (from 1995 discussion)

[quote]
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 09:32:51 -1000 From: tanaka_be@swam1.enet.dec.com (Bert Tanaka) Message-Id: <9502081930.AA09897@mts-gw.pa.dec.com> Organization: Harvard University Office of Information Technology Subject: New Product - Improved SkyShark 2P rod

    I got a set of the new 2P spars from SkyShark and tested them in my Legend IQ ultralight that normally uses the 3P spars. This is a nice 8 gram rod. The old 2P was the same diameter as the 3P, 5P and 7P, which made it convenient because it was interchangeable with the same fittings that are used on the other rods. Although it had a pretty good stiffness to weight ratio, it was also a bit fragile for the heavy use and harsh flying that I like to do. I've never used them because I could break them so easily.

    This new 2P is made with a smaller diameter. A concept Erez says that was suggested by David Lord. I believe he used the diameter spec Dave suggested when the new mandrel was selected. Otherwise, it appears to have all the same characteristics of the old rod, except that it is much, much tougher.

    I've been flying with it for a while now and have been doing a lot of ground rolls, tip stabs, coins, cartwheels, and hard snap stalls (basically, I've been trying to break them!). Ground work and hard snapping maneuvers will weaken a rod but so far, this new 2P has held up wonderfully. This one is probably tough enough to accept a set of Power-Tite connectors which help to stiffen up the frames made of light weight spars. At any rate, it has proving to be a very durable performer for me.

    Good Winds, Bert

    = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

    Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 12:19:06 -1000 From: bwg001@carina.unm.edu (Brian W. Gordon) Message-Id: <3he4cq$o30@lynx.unm.edu> Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque Subject: Re: New Product - Improved SkyShark 2P rod

    Bert Tanaka (tanaka_be@swam1.enet.dec.com) wrote: : I got a set of the new 2P spars from SkyShark and tested them in my : Legend IQ ultralight that normally uses the 3P spars. This is a nice : 8 gram rod. The old 2P was the same diameter as the 3P, 5P and 7P, which : made it convenient because it was interchangeable with the same fittings : that are used on the other rods. Although it had a pretty good stiffness : to weight ratio, it was also a bit fragile for the heavy use and harsh : flying that I like to do. I've never used them because I could break them : so easily.

    : This new 2P is made with a smaller diameter. A concept Erez says that was : suggested by David Lord. I believe he used the diameter spec Dave suggested : when the new mandrel was selected. Otherwise, it appears to have all the same : characteristics of the old rod, except that it is much, much tougher.

    : I've been flying with it for a while now and have been doing a lot : of ground rolls, tip stabs, coins, cartwheels, and hard snap stalls : (basically, I've been trying to break them!). Ground work and hard : snapping maneuvers will weaken a rod but so far, this new 2P has held : up wonderfully. This one is probably tough enough to accept a set of : Power-Tite connectors which help to stiffen up the frames made of : light weight spars. At any rate, it has proving to be a very durable : performer for me.

    : Good Winds, : Bert

    Thanks for the great info Bert! How do you think these spars will hold up (in terms of toughness) to other SUL spars like the G-Force?

    Keith Kidder

    = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

    From: Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 01:44:26 -1000 From: mainwari@k12.oit.umass.edu(Dave Mainwaring (Northeast Resources))) Message-Id: <1995Feb17.114426.12799@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Organization: University of Massachusetts/Amherst K-12 Information System Reply-To: mainwari@k12.oit.umass.edu(Dave Mainwaring (Northeast Resources))) Subject: Re: New Product - Improved SkyShark 2P rod

    In a previous article, bwg001@carina.unm.edu (Brian W. Gordon) says:

    />Bert Tanaka (tanaka_be@swam1.enet.dec.com) wrote: />: I got a set of the new 2P spars from SkyShark and tested them in my />: Legend IQ ultralight that normally uses the 3P spars. This is a nice />: 8 gram rod. The old 2P was the same diameter as the 3P, 5P and 7P, which />: made it convenient because it was interchangeable with the same fittings />: that are used on the other rods. Although it had a pretty good stiffness />: to weight ratio, it was also a bit fragile for the heavy use and harsh />: flying that I like to do. I've never used them because I could break them />: so easily. />

    any suggestions on locating sources for spars, I,m in the Boston MA area. --Dave Mainwaring Northeast Resources (617) 455 9920 FAX 617 449 1826

    = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

    Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 08:15:23 -1000 From: sasaki@netope.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki) Message-Id: <3i2p3r$4u5@netope.harvard.edu> Organization: Harvard University Subject: Re: New Product - Improved SkyShark 2P rod

    In article <1995Feb17.114426.12799@k12.ucs.umass.edu>, mainwari@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Dave Mainwaring (Northeast Resources)) writes: |>any suggestions on locating sources for spars, I,m in the Boston MA area.

    Don McCasland at Kites of Boston has a pretty good stock of spars and can order anything that he doesn't have.

    I can provide small numbers of spars for repairs and such. I don't really do retail, however, but am happy to help out if you need something on the field and I have it with me.

    I highly recommend Tom Marvin at Hang-em High Fabrics in Richmond VA. Tom has all sorts of spars and fittings along with Icarex and regular ripstop nylon.

    Another good source of spars is the High Fly Kite Co in New Jersey. Fran Gramkowski has lots of experience with all sorts of kite spars.

    --Marty Sasaki Harvard University Sasaki Kite Fabrications sasaki@harvard.edu Network Services Division 90 Melrose Street 617-496-4320 10 Ware Street Arlington, MA 02174 Cambridge, MA 02138-4002 phone/fax: 617-646-1925
[/quote]

Pat's Hacks, servo motor conversions

2008-12-01T16:51:00.002-05:00

Thank Pat Matthews for sharing the following post on servo hacks!

Servos are wonderful little devices! Not only do they provide an inexpensive way to activate mechanical linkages through radio control, but they can be hacked to provide inexpensive drive units for small boats and cars with their self-contained motors and electronic speed controls (ESC's), and they can serve as part of a simple on/off power control switch.

Basic servos can be found for less than $10

A servo is a little gear-motor, ESC, and a position sensing device in one package. Rip the guts out of the case, and you'll have:
a) A lead from the Rx… it carries +5 volts, ground, and a signal wire.
b) A circuit board.
c) A small 5v motor, which may be soldered directly to the circuit board.
d) A pile of gears connecting the motor to the servo output. Bin these.
e) A potentiometer (pot, or variable resistor) connected to the circuit board with 3 leads, and mechanically connected to the servo output.

Step 1: A few screws loose, and things start to open up.

Step 2: Pressing on the two shafts popped the board out of the case. Don't pry directly on the board.

Step 3: Using desoldering braid to wick off the solder, makes it easier to pull off the motor.
Loose parts.

Hack 1: Going Pot Free

First trick in hacking a servo: Disconnect the pot from the servo output. Normally, as the pot moves with the servo output, it produces a varying voltage which is read by the circuit board, telling the servo that the output has moved to the desired position (or not). See Schematic 1. When you disconnect this little knob from the gear train and the servo output, leaving it in it's centered position, and then command servo movement at the radio, the circuit board never detects any movement, and thus keeps telling the motor to run.
So now center the stick, servo is happy, goes nowhere; forward stick, and the motor kicks in and just keeps buzzing; reverse stick, ditto the other way. You'll want to put a drop of glue on the pot to keep it from drifting.

Hack 1a: If the Pot itself doesn't suit you, you can replace it with a pair of 2.2k ohm resistors- both tied to the center tap's lead, opposite ends of the resistors to the pot's "outer" leads.

Another nice feature- most servos have a soft start, which means that a little bit of stick will give part throttle… other than that, it's pretty much off/on.

Hack 2: Motor Swapping

Next hack: The little motors that comes with servos may not suit you… they have tiny little short shafts. Any small 6v toy motor will do instead, as long as you don't load it heavily- the servo's ESC isn't designed to deliver much current! If the motor is connected to the circuit board with wires, no problem to swap them. If the motor is soldered directly to the board, you'll need to work a little more carefully. You can get "solder braid" from Radio Shack- braided copper wire that you heat with a soldering iron while pressing onto the board's soldered joint. The braid sucks up the solder, and you can pull the motor loose much more easily.

If you decide to keep the servo motor, no problem. You can leave the motor on the board- that's what I did on my plastic landing craft. And you can get tiny little plastic u-joints to press onto various miniature shaft sizes, metric and English, from Northwest Shortlines- catalog page at http://www.nwsl.com/Catalog/cat-UJoint.pdf


Servo motor still attached to board. Motor can is pressed into plastic structure.	Twin drive in landing craft.

Servo motor set in Revell Trawler	Close-up of NWSL U-Joint on servo motor's 1.5mm shaft. "Horn" is sized for 1/16" prop shaft, which is only slightly larger than 1.5mm.

Pat'web site http://www.geocities.com/patsmodels/servo/

A simple jib-twitcher

2008-11-18T10:41:00.001-05:00

The Star 45 R/C Model Sail Boat

2008-11-13T17:43:00.001-05:00

The Star 45 R/C Model Sail Boat - Builders Journal

The Star 45 R/C Model Sail Boat - Builders Journal

Construction photographs, articles about the Star 45. -- Join the AMYA STAR45 Class discussion group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Star45/ -- Read about How To Build A Wooden Star45 R/C Sailing Model! Browse http://woodstar45.blogspot.com/ Based on the International Star Boat this semi-scale Star45 can be scratch built by novice or seasoned skipper. Easily radio controlled and large enough to see out on the water this is a classic model model built by hobbyists for over thirty years!

Thinning Epoxy

2008-10-16T06:34:00.000-04:00

Thinning West System Epoxy by Brian Knight
http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glues/WestSystem/Thinning/Thinning.html

"This article appeared in the Fall 1999 issue of Epoxyworks, published by Gougeon Brothers, manufacturers of the West System epoxies." Brian Knight thanks Gougeon for permission to publish this in the December 1999 Falco Builders Letter. "

Here are key excerpts for your review and discussion:

"With wood, the best method of thinning epoxy with heat is to warm the wood and have the resin and hardener at room temperature. Mix the components and apply the mixture to the warm wood surface. Remove the heat source just before the epoxy is applied. When the epoxy mixture comes in contact with the warm wood, it gets warm and its viscosity becomes lower. As the temperature of the wood falls, the thin epoxy is drawn in deeply before it begins to gel. By heating the substrate instead of the components, you get the best of both worlds-low viscosity epoxy on the work surface and longer working time in the mixing pot."

Thinning epoxy with solvent
Adding solvent is a quick, simple method of thinning epoxy, but unlike using heat to thin it, the strength and moisture resistance of the cured epoxy are drastically affected. Below are some of the effects adding solvent has on West System epoxy. While there are a large number of chemicals available to thin epoxy, we selected acetone, lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol for this discussion because they are commonly available and do a good job of reducing viscosity. Additionally, these solvents evaporate quickly and are less likely to be trapped in the cured epoxy-an important characteristic. For a variety of reasons, fast evaporating lacquer thinner appears to be more appropriate for thinning purposes than acetone or alcohol.

So you want to build a sailing model

2008-10-15T09:05:00.003-04:00

Find plans for a sailing model, buy or find on-line.

Join a model boat forum for advice.

Buy or borrow books on boat building.

Decide on type of planking and wood to be used to build the model.

Set aside a work space for building.

Review the bill of materials need to build the model and buy the materials.

Order deck and mast fittings.

Order mast (if you are buying the mast) and order sails (or sail material).

Choose the radio system, buy a sail control unit, Order keel bulb or get advice and discuss issues of building your own.

While the hull is under construction build:

Keel fin and ballast bulb

Rudder assembly

Make or assemble spars ( mast and booms)

Build cradle to hold boat under construction and when finished.

Test Radio System and sail control unit

After hull is planked:

Install keel trunk or make provisions for mounting keel.

Install radio and sail control unit, Then remove while construction continues.

Construct deck and hatches

Install/mount deck fittings

Test access to radio and sail control inside the hull.

Provide a exit guide for radio antenna so it can be attached to mast or stays.

Install power switch for turning off batteries

Test mount keel

Paint hull, rudder and keel

Assemble hull, rudder and keel

Set up mast and boom.

Install radio controls.

Check running rigging.

Attach Sails

dry sail model

--

Sail
Display
Storage

Hull Templates - bulkheads for building model sailboat, S45

2008-10-15T09:01:00.002-04:00

The grid shown is set to 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid yields a 1/4 square.

Modelers will use different building materials for the model.These are JPG drawing and print outs may require adjustments to get the widths to correct sizing. For a Star45 AMYA class you need to make adjustments to allow for planking thickness. The rules establish the maximum allowable beam dimension and hull length.

Most browsers will allow you to right click and open the jpg files. You can then save them to your machine.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher back around August 2006. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

If you want to scale to use for different model you can change the print out to give you a different grid size.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdf's to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.Rudder templates for a Star45 Class sailing model.The grid shown is set for 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid yields a 1/4 inch square.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdf's to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.

These are half shadow that ar eplaced between the templates to add strength to the hull.

Keel Templates for S45 model sail boat

2008-10-15T08:59:00.000-04:00

Building templates for S45 Keel fin.
Originals drawings are based on 1/16 ply.

Modeler may want to use different building materials for the fin.
Final keel fin will be shaped the builder. Also these are JPG drawing and print outs may require adjustments to get the templates to correct sizing.

The grid shown is set for 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid is a 1/4 square. If you want to scale the keel fins for another model you can change the print out to give you a different grid size.

This set of templates are based on bolt mounting. The grid makes it easy to add to the template to have the keel extend into the hull or extend into the keel bulb. Modeler's choice.

Most browsers will allow you to right click and open the jpg images. You can then save them to your machine.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher 2006. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdf's to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.

Rudder templates for a Star45 Class sailing model

2008-10-15T08:57:00.000-04:00

Rudder templates for a Star45 Class sailing model.The grid shown is set for 1/4 inch squares. So if you print the templates you can check the size by making sure the grid yields a 1/4 inch square.

This set of templates are based on drawing from John Fisher. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdf's to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images.

Model Sailboat Plans on line

2008-10-15T08:54:00.001-04:00

Most browsers will allow you to right click and open the jpg images. You can then save them to your machine.

This set of plans are based on drawing from John Fisher 2006. John may have new and updated drawings available. Check with http://groups.yahoo.com/search?query=star45 membership required.

I want to thank J. Herrmann, www.graphicLanguageOnline.com, for his assistance in converting pdf's to jpg drawing, adding color to the templates and adding the grid to the final images

You can print these drawing to many different sizes.They are not necessarily to scale.

HULL defintion of:

2008-10-15T08:52:00.000-04:00

Dave Mainwaring's definitions

HULL defintion of:
The outer shell, including frames, ribs, interior bulkheads, exclusive of masts, rigging, deck and equipment.

"bare hull" defintion of:
A model boat's outer shell, EXCLUDING, ribs, interior bulkheads, exclusive of masts, rigging, deck and equipment. Example. A fiberglass hull as pulled from a mold.

--

A wooden hull:
one constructed of wood (including plywood).

A glass hull:
one constructed of reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin). Nominally referred to as a fiberglass hull.

A composite hull:
a hull constructed of wood and covered with reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin).
OR:
a hull constructed using a laminate (sandwich) consisting of reinforced plastic (cloth impregnated with resin) on two sides of a core . Core materials may be foam or wood.

Inside a R/C sailing model hull

2008-10-15T08:40:00.001-04:00

John Fisher photographer and builder!
Radio Board stringers between bulkheads
(Note the method of keel support using these stringers)

Radio Board

Rudder Servo

Mast support (inside hull)

S45 sail boat Rigging Bill of Material from John Fisher

2008-10-15T08:37:00.002-04:00

To:Star45@yahoogroups.com
From: 'J Fisher'jfisher@wildblue.net
Sender: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:02:38 -0700 (Mountain Standard Time)
Subject: Re: [Star45] Deck rigging and such

Here is the list on the star 45 yahoo groups for rigging. I am using the following for my next couple of builds:
GBMY item #, description, qty, purpose
019, 3/8' alloy tube, 1, Jib boom
034, Hales single block, 2, main and jib sheets
146, tapered drain plug, 1, plug in transom
182, Z sheet hook, 2, sheet ends/boom attachment
202, large bowsie, 1, back stay/forestay with 80 lb Dacron, order small ones if using spektra
206, O-rings, 1, hold the Z hooks to the boom.
254, double block, 2, main sheet and jib sheet adjuster
255, sheet exit, 1, turning block for main sheet from under deck to above deck.
269, eye plate, 1, mounting for jib block.
272, 180 deg sheet lead, 1, turn around for jib tweaker
280, sheet hook, 1, hooks for backstay and fore stay.
282, tang, 1, attach lowers to mast.
907, rigging screw, 4 hooks, 2 packs, upper and lowers to the deck.

I also build my own chain plates, so I don't order them from GBMY. Don does carry them if you need them. I also like the Ludwig mast better than the bantock mast, so I ordered 8 foot masts cut to 69' from Larry Ludwig, the other 28' or so is the main boom. Last time I made all my own boom vang, mast fitting. This time I ordered them from Larry. You can use the bantock mast, boom, and fittings from GBMY as well. They are good stuff and I have them on my IOM.

The back stay crane is made from 1/16 (.063') aluminum that I bought at the local hobby shop.

John Fisher

---

photo's courtesy of "Larry Ludwig" at www.LudwigRCYachts.com, Ludwig Mfg.

Jib Tweakers

2008-10-15T08:32:00.001-04:00

Jib tweaker with swing arm sail control unit:

Adding a servo to the end of the jib sheet allows the jib to be "tweaked" by changing the effective length of the sheet while under sail. The challenge is to set the servo to mid point when setting the model up prior to sailing.

Tweaker with drum type sail control unit.

___________________________________

A jib twicher is a rig that pulls the jib boom to port or to starboard when sailing down wind.

These to devices are often confused with each other :)

2005-08-12T21:33:00.000-04:00

This is as far as I have got with my model. Dave sent me a set of plans many years ago back in BBS days but I don't know how to attach the next phase. The decking. I will eventually build a steam engine to run it. Ian Macaulay (aka Semibogus)

2004-12-18T19:00:00.000-05:00

Dave Mainwaring's Friendship Sloop, built Jan 1950 on left, Dave's 42 inch lobster boat on right 2000399
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:59:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000399 Dave Mainwaring
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:59:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000395
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:58:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000394
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:58:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000393
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:57:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000391
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:56:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000389
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:56:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000388
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:55:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000387
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:55:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000386
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:54:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000385
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:54:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000381
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:53:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000380
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:53:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000379
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:52:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000377
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:51:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000376
Posted by Hello

2004-12-18T18:51:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000375 Bob Francis
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2004-12-18T18:50:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000373
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2004-12-18T18:49:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000372
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2004-12-18T18:49:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 200039 42" Jonesport Lobster Boat
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2004-12-18T18:48:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000368
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2004-12-18T18:47:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000367
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2004-12-18T18:47:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000366
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2004-12-18T18:46:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000365
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USCGC Castle Hill, RI

2004-12-18T18:46:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000363
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2004-12-18T18:45:00.001-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000361
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2004-12-18T18:45:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 2000360
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2004-12-18T18:44:00.000-05:00

R/C models Rocky Woods, Medfield MA 1991 200039
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2004-12-18T17:36:00.000-05:00

2000358 Medfield MA, Rocky Woods
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2004-12-18T17:35:00.000-05:00

2000356 199? Medfield MA, Rocky Woods
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2004-12-18T17:34:00.000-05:00

2000355 Medfield Rocky Woods 19991
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2004-12-18T17:33:00.000-05:00

Medfield MA, Rocky Woods 1991
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2004-12-18T17:31:00.000-05:00

R/C model CGC, Rocky Woods Medfield MA 1991 JPG2000353Medfield
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2004-11-03T22:22:00.001-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:22:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:21:00.001-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:21:00.000-05:00

Lou Hills Tug, Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:20:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet. George Carney, 42 inch RC Lobster Boat

2004-11-03T22:19:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods meet

2004-11-03T22:18:00.001-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:18:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:17:00.001-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:17:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:16:00.001-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:16:00.000-05:00

Medfield, Rocky Woods on the water meet

2004-11-03T22:15:00.000-05:00

Charley Evans RC Friendhsip Sloop (pulled from Dave Mainwaring's mold)

2004-11-03T22:13:00.000-05:00

Dave Mainwaring RC Friendship Sloop

2004-11-03T20:44:00.000-05:00

42 Inch RC Lobster Boat, Cambridge on water show. Plug for mold built by Dave Mainwaring. Hull molded by George Carney

Model Boats and Ships 2004.10.29

2004-10-29T16:58:00.000-04:00

Launch date 2004.10.29 16:59